Nepal bans solo expeditions on Everest and other 8000ers
Baku, February 5, AZERTAC
Nepal has officially ended solo expeditions on Everest and other 8,000-metre peaks by amending its mountaineering regulations, the Kathmandu Post reports.
The Sixth Amendment was implemented on Tuesday following its publication in the Nepal Gazette, the official government publication.
The revised regulations bar solo expeditions and require that a guide is assigned for every two climbers for peaks above 8,000 metres, including Everest. For other mountains, the rule requires at least one guide per group.
“We have made guides mandatory to ensure climbers’ safety, particularly on the 8,000ers,” said Narayan Prasad Regmi, director general of the Department of Tourism, the government agency responsible for issuing climbing permits.
“The solo climbing era on these peaks has ended, regardless of a climber’s experience. Whether alpine-style or expedition-style, from now on, no one can climb these mountains without a support guide.”
This rule has shattered the dreams of many climbers, including German mountaineer Jost Kobusch. Kobusch, 32, had been attempting an ambitious solo winter ascent of Everest for several years. Last December, he reached an altitude of 7,537 metres on the West Ridge.
While expedition operators welcomed the new regulations, some pointed out potential loopholes.
Mingma Sherpa, managing director of Seven Summit Treks, Nepal’s largest expedition company, said making support guides mandatory is a positive move, as it creates local jobs and enhances safety. However, he noted that this does not necessarily eliminate solo climbing.
“If a professional climber hires a guide to comply with the rule, it doesn’t mean they can’t climb on their own,” Sherpa said.
Support guides are responsible for guiding, reporting, and documenting the climb. “For professional climbers, guiding is not always necessary,” he added.
Mandatory guides will not only reduce casualties but also help locate missing climbers and retrieve bodies in case of accidents. “A guide can at least pinpoint the area and request immediate search and rescue,” said Sherpa.
Under the revised regulations, the royalty fee for foreign climbers attempting Everest from the standard south route in the spring season (March-May) has increased from $11,000 to $15,000 per person.
The climbing fee for the autumn season (September-November) has risen from $5,500 to $7,500. For winter (December-February) and for monsoon (June-August) season, the fee has increased from $2,750 to $3,750.
Likewise, fees for other 8,000-metre peaks have also been raised. The spring season fee has jumped from $1,800 to $3,000. The autumn fee is now $1,500, up from $900, while the winter and monsoon seasons will now cost $750, up from $450.
For Nepali climbers, the royalty fee for the normal route in the spring season has doubled from Rs75,000 to Rs150,000.
The last royalty fee revision happened on January 1, 2015, when the government switched from a group-based system to a uniform fee of $11,000 per climber for Everest’s spring season via the normal route.
The new rates will take effect on September 1, 2025.
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